67yo returns to find mother’s grave on uninhabited island

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Monday 11 November 2019 | Written by Jonathan Milne | Published in Local

When Charlie Quarter was a six-year-old living among the copra plantations of Manuae, the boat would come only once every four months.

There was no doctor, little medicine – so there was very little hope for his mother when she came down with tuberculosis. She died and was buried on the island.

When the next boat turned up, Charlie’s dad took the family back to the mainland. And that was the last time he saw Manuae and his mother’s grave.

Until this spring. A few weeks ago, after years of dreaming and planning in which he always felt he would once more honour his mother’s memory, Quarter – now 67 – stepped ashore on the now uninhabited island.

It had been a rough trip – they had been waiting on Aitutaki for a break in the weather. Eventually it dropped from 15 knots to 12 knots and their WetnWild skipper Quinton Schofield agreed to take them the 100km across the sea to Manuae. “In the end we said, we’ve got to go now.”

Quarter lives in Cairns, and he had enlisted the help of his friend Faimau Robati, who as a 14-year-old in 1985 had camped six months on the island with a Marine Resources fisheries crew.

They would catch parrot fish, chill them on big blocks of ice from ministry’s ice machine in Rarotonga, then send them back for sale in the market.

Robati remembered where the small burial ground with seven graves was.

But, says Quarter, he had someone else guiding him too: his mother. “Finding that grave, I don’t know if you believe me but I think my mum guided me home. It was spiritual,” he says.

“My nephew had a dream and said, my grandmother visited me and told me to follow her,” Quarter recalls. “So I said, tell me your dream.”

The route and landmarks his nephew dreamed – they were all there, Quarter says, when they landed on the beach at Manuae.

Quarter always felt he would see his mother one last time. “I knew I had to do it for her.”

WARNING / CAUTION

To all VISITORS wanting to swim with the whales and all overseas INTERNATIONAL Whale Swim retreat/tour OPERATORS coming to Aitutaki Cook Islands, to swim with the whales – Please be advised that Immigration has now stepped in and you must have a legally registered business in the Cook Islands with a 50%+ local partner to run whale retreats to the Cook Islands, or here on a working visa for a local company.

So if you have gone and booked or seen any operators doing whale swim retreats to Aitutaki including accommodation , flights, food, days out on the water for a package deal ect… then they’re most likely not a local registered business in the Cook Islands. As far as we know we are the only Legal registered business in the Cook Islands doing whale swim retreat packages locally and internationally.

This year 2026 immigration stepped in to enforce the laws which had slowly been taken advantage of over the years (You can’t have an overseas website/business and operate in the Cooks paying the overheads and taking the profit home not paying any tax here. If you are wanting to do whale swim retreats to the Cook Islands then give us call or email for options on collaboration for tours. As the founders of whale swimming in Aitutaki and building up this amazing activity over the years for the Island being one of Aitutaki’s most biggest attractions and also having our own whale swim retreats, we are glad to see this problem being addressed keeping the money in our country .

Sorry if there is any other Cook islands registered businesses we don’t know about doing whale swim retreats feel free to let everyone know here.

SUPPORT LOCAL – Meitaki Atupaka